21 January 2016

Back to Martinique

Martinique continues to be one of our preferred places in the Caribbean. It has nice hikes, nice beaches and, being one of the biggest islands in the Lesser Antilles, it has quite a bit of infrastructure. Being on a boat, this means that if anything breaks, you are most likely to find a spare here. And on top of all this, there's the food: great wine, lots of cheese and baguettes. And all very cheap too. What else can you ask?

This time, we stayed in Ste-Anne and Le Marin. Ste-Anne is a small and picturesque town. It has a nice anchorage and a nice beach. Very close to it is Le Marin, where you can do some provisioning, something that we needed to do.


Walking around St. Anne

Regatta day in St. Anne.


We were told we could get to the nice beach of Les Salines by walking about 30 minutes from Ste-Anne. So we decided to make it a day and go explore. We found a path in the middle of trees and started walking on it. The path was great but a bit muddy as it had rained a lot the day before. After walking for about 40 minutes and being at least another 40 minutes away from the nice beach, we decided to get back and just picnic on a closer beach. But it wasn't that nice...

Trying to get from the trail to the beach proved to be a bit of an experience.

Our dirtiest feet ever after the hike! Note mine are not so bad :)

After walking for 40 minutes we got to a crappy beach only to realize we could've taken the dinghy and gotten there in 5 minutes!
 The following day we decide to try again to find Les Salines. This time, though, we took the big boat and voilà!
Finally at Les Salines!





We rented a car for a day and drove around the island. We visited the place of birth of Josephine, Napoleon Bonaparte's first wife. And we also went to the Botanical Gardens. We enjoyed both of these places and highly recommend them. Being used to the less than great quality of some of the museums we visited in the Caribbean, these two places were an unexpected surprise. Both of them are very well maintained and well worth the money spent.



Our very  small rental car :)

The mill at Josephine's birth place.


Museum of Josephine Bonaparte. 
Botanical gardens.

There's a nice bridge in the botanical gardens. The kids loved it!

A river at the side of the road.






We are currently anchored in St. Pierre. Tomorrow we'll move to Les Saintes, in Guadeloupe.  Goodbye Martinique, it has been great visiting here!

07 January 2016

The Cruising Condition

I arrived in Grenada in mid December with a simple plan: have the bottom of the boat painted, launch the boat, and move it from Grenada Marine to Prickly Bay before Natalia and the kids flew in a week later. Everything went according to plan. The work to be done in the yard took place as expected, the boat was launched, the boat was moved – I even hoisted the jib and enjoyed a nice downwind solo sail to Prickly. Amid the flurry of activity that was that week, there was a constant absence in the back of my mind.

 Two months earlier I had spent 2 weeks in Grenada on my own with the sole purpose of working on the boat. That time I mixed boat projects with plenty of social activities. I stayed at Karin and Tomás's house most nights and enjoyed a few delicious dinners in their patio. During the day I spent a lot of time with the crew of Skylark, who were also on the hard. I had good friends with whom I could enjoy my downtime.

But in December, most of our friends were gone. I met a couple of other cruisers in the yard, but I mostly worked and ate alone. I was busy, though, so I didn't have much of a chance to feel lonely.

The work didn't stop when I got to Prickly, and life slowly started to return to almost normal when Natalia and the kids arrived in Grenada. We completed our provisioning, finished cleaning up the boat, and started looking for other cruising families to hang out with. We met a few boats and also spent time with Pontea, whom we had met in the summer.

We all felt somewhat out of sorts. Coming back to Grenada was like coming home (after all, Taia is our home), but all our friends and neighbors weren't there. Yes, we met people with whom we could easily establish a friendship, but they all had different travel plans. We missed our friends and all 4 of us were articulating it in different ways.
River tubing in Grenada on December 24th
After a quiet Christmas (talk about a silent night!), we started getting ready to sail to Bequia. The weather forecast promised unicorns, sirens, and care bears for the 28th of December. We moved Taia to Saint George's the night before and picked up anchor at 3 am on the 28th. Not long after we left the lee of Grenada, the unicorns became angry waves, the sirens made sure the wind backed to the north east (right on our motherfucking nose), and the care bears made Natalia toss her cookies repeatedly. Despite these fantastically unfriendly creatures, we successfully anchored in Bequia that afternoon. Then we started stalking people, desperately trying to make friends.

Bequia continues to be one of our favorite islands in the Caribbean. And to make it even more enticing, we met and befriended 4 other kid boats: Amar Sem Fim (from Brazil), Penny Lane (from England), Nemetona (from the US), and Shang Du (from Southafrica). Unfortunately Penny Lane and Nemetona are on their way south to Grenada, but Amar Sem Fim are on their way north and we will continue to run into them as we point our bow to Cuba. Shang Du are also going north, but on a much more relaxed schedule than ours.

New Year's Eve in Bequia was another quiet affair for the crew of Taia. We played games with the kids, watched a movie, and then watched a surprisingly good fireworks display from deck.

As has become a tradition in Bequia, I went diving. First with Shang Du and the day after with Pete from Penny Lane. Both dives were excellent. Another tradition for us on Bequia is a bonfire at the beach. We had it and it was a lot of fun.
Wreck dive in Bequia
Another successful bonfire at the beach in Bequia
Once again the weather forecast called for unicorns and sirens, so we planned our 90-mile passage to Martinique for the 5th of January. This time Poseidon and Aeolus were unfashionably benevolent and gave us the most enjoyable passage we've had in a very long time. We covered the 90 miles in a bit shy of 17 hours, 11 or 12 of those in the dark. It was a beautiful starry night, with a few threatening clouds to the east, but the squalls took pity on us and failed to make an appearance.
Most enjoyable passage to Martinique
Now we're anchored in Sainte-Anne, Martinique. We're enjoying the food and the food is great and we will eat a lot of awesome tasting food. Did I mention the food in Martinique has no equal? So yeah, we're eating a lot and the refrigerator and freezer will be full to the brim before we move north again.


We still miss our friends and cry a little every time we see their blog and facebook posts. But that's ok, we know they're safe and happy, as are we. And we will make sure we meet again. Meanwhile, we're making new friends and feel a little bit less lonely every day. There's always room for new friends. Cruising is a very social lifestyle.